WatchTime New York 2022
A look five new releases from the most coveted launches from the famed collector’s event
Written by Theo Baker
October 28, 2022
WatchTime New York is among the best events in horology for those looking to get exclusive face time with some of the most prestigious brands in the industry. Rather than most trade events that prioritize media and retailers, WatchTime New York is consumer centric, giving guests the opportunity to chat with brand executives and be hands-on with some of the most talked about releases from 2022.
As one the last major watch events of the year, WatchTime New York 2022 welcomed industry professionals and thousands of guests to NYC’s Gotham Hall over the weekend of October 21-23. This year, over 30 participating brands, including Bell & Ross, Ferdinand Berthoud, Laurent Ferrier, Norqain, Bremont, Seiko, Glashütte Original, and more used the event as the stage for the debut of brand-new pieces. Let’s take a look at some of the most notable releases to come out of this year’s exhibition.
Bell & Ross BR X5
Kicking off our recap is French watchmaker Bell & Ross, which debuted its BR X5 series at WatchTime New York this year. The new model is an offspring of the BR 05 design, one which effectively wrote the current design code for Bell & Ross sports watches. Its main attributes are a rounded-corner square case silhouette and integrated bracelet style. While the new BR X5 maintains the rounded-corner square bezel that is characteristic of the BR 05 collection, it instead opts for a novel, hollowed-out case design.
The steel case of the BR X5 measures 41mm wide and 12.8mm thick and utilizes a multi-layer design that is best displayed from a side view of the watch. Such an angle reveals a technical construction that is hollow in appearance and optimizes lightness without compromising robustness.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC
The interactive side of WatchTime New York is such a unique and valuable benefit to guests of the event, especially when it comes to limited edition pieces like the Chronomètre FB 3SPC from Ferdinand Berthoud. With a limited production of 25 pieces, only a select few would have the chance to interact with the watch if not for its in-the-metal debut at the show in New York. Announced just days prior to the event, the newest Ferdinand Berthoud release is a follow-up to the previous FB1 and FB2 models in the Chronomètre collection.
The timepiece makes its debut in two different colorways, including an 18k white gold edition and an 18k 5N rose gold variation. On the wrist, the watch measures 42.3mm by 9.43mm, with the most apparent aesthetic reflection of the brand’s modern identity coming to life through a skeletonized dial configuration. Revealed through the open sections of the skeletonized dial and a sapphire caseback on the reverse is the caliber FB-SPC that powers the hands.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC is available in 18-carat white gold (ref. FB 3SPC.1) and 18-carat 5N rose gold (ref. FB 3SPC.2), with production limited to 25 total pieces per year and pricing available upon request.
British brand Bremont took its Supernova model to WatchTime New York, with it marking the maker’s first sports watch to include an integrated bracelet style. The release comes after three years of development, during which the brand dedicated to invest in new tools and software to improve its production capabilities. The optimization of the brand’s resources is evident in the comprehensive attention to detail in the curves of the lugs and sharp geometry of the case.
On its exterior, the Supernova uses a 40mm steel case that is an updated version of the brand’s three-piece ‘Trip-Tick’ case design. Seamlessly joining the edges of the case is the sleek “T-link” wristband that boasts both style as well as ease, with fewer parts and delicate screws then previous iterations. Turning the case over reveals the manufacture Caliber ENG375, which features a rubber anti-shock movement mount and supports 65-hours of reserved power.
Seiko Prospex US Special Editions
Not only did Seiko come back to WatchTime New York with one new release, but the brand actually debuted a trio of Prospex divers made exclusively for the US market. From the late 1960s and into its modern era, Seiko has made significant advances in improving its dive watch technology, namely as the first brand to use a lightweight titanium case for a professional dive watch. Expectedly, the three US Special Edition watches also feature a titanium case with a super-hard reinforcement layer to ensure durability. With inspiration from the ocean and the utility of divers in mind, this trio of Prospex watches are as versatile as they are robust.
The Prospex watches are pretty substantial, especially for smaller wrists, with dimensions of 43.5mm by 13.25mm. With secure screw-down crowns and casebacks, the watches also guarantee a water resistance of 200 meters. Available in the oceanic-inspired colors of light-green, blue-gray or blue-green, the distinctive pattern of the dial references the texture of mineral deposits on undersea cave walls. Inside, Seiko’s proprietary automatic movement, the Caliber 6R35, beats under a power reserve of 70 hours, and has both manual and automatic winding capabilities.
Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon
Wrapping up our recap of this year’s WatchTime New York is the new Grand Sport Tourbillon from Laurent Ferrier. The watch comes in celebration of the 12th anniversary of the brand and joins a lineage of emblematic modifications to the original Grand Sport Tourbillon. The newest model is a direct update to one released in 2019, though this time taking shape with a precious metal exterior and warm brown colorway.
In keeping with the steel base model, case composition is inspired by the sleek curvature and clean lines of racing cars, though this time executed in 5N red gold. The case measures 44mm in diameter and is secured by an integrated bracelet. The graduated chocolate-colored dial has a soft opaline finish, a discreet detail that is a trademark of the Laurent Ferrier design code. Powering the model is the Laurent Ferrier LF619.01 tourbillon caliber. The movement features a refined carriage holding a double-balance-spring tourbillon that is yet another allusion to the appearance of a car engine.